
CS Monitor, December 16, 2004 , By Helena Cobban QOM, IRAN - On a recent Thursday, the marble-paved courtyards of Qom's. 400-year-old Hazrat-e Masumeh shrine were filled with family groups of Shiite pilgrims from different communities. Many were Iranians, but I also heard snatches of Arabic amid the Farsi and saw faces from throughout central Asia and saris from the Indian subcontinent. Like nearly all the women here, I was wrapped in an all-encompassing black chador. (It's hard to keep that massive, single piece of cloth from slithering to…
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